Photo Essay: Surfing in Jæren

Photo Essay: Daily surf sessions at morning twilight, afternoon and evening twilight in Jæren 

Written by Torunn Irene Seldal

 

The appearance of a full moon coincided with the arrival of severe winter weather. The wind was piercingly cold, with temperatures feeling as low as -15°C. Winter surfing demands persistence and fortitude, traits that may be attributed to cultural heritage or simply a deep passion for the sport. Here, the most passionate surfers in Jæren chase waves in all types of weather, from morning twilight to evening twilight.

Women are increasingly prominent in the surf scene year-round, demonstrating resilience, skill, and commitment in often challenging conditions. Their growing presence reflects both the strength of the local community and a shared passion for the water in every season.

The cold temperature would almost freeze the fingers to ice.

The surfers suit up in the thickest rubber: 6/5 mm wetsuits, 8 mm boots, and 7 mm gloves. Warming up is an essential part of the ritual, helping to prevent muscles from stiffening and to bring some heat into the wetsuit before entering the water.

The cold-water surfing scene on this coast is not for the faint-hearted, with slippery pebbles underfoot and constantly changing weather and surf conditions adding to the challenge.

The women surfers paddle out in the relatively milder temperature of 9 degrees, a welcome contrast to the harsher winter conditions.

Waiting for the next sets of waves test patience and accepting the unknown.

Catching the first wave of the session at morning twilight can feel even more rewarding in a cold-water surf destination, after all the hours spent preparing for the conditions.

The meditative nature of surfing provides a deep sense of tranquillity. On a regular afternoon, these remote breaks can create the feeling of “being the only person in the world”.

The cold-water surfers are in harmony with the local birds all year around.

Surfing conditions in the region are inconsistent, sometimes offering only brief windows of optimal waves, while periods of good surf can be followed by weeks of less favourable conditions.

During the darkest winter months surfers rush out after work to catch the last waves before dark.

A final moment of observation and contemplation after the surf session before driving home to a warm shower, while anticipation for the next day’s surf remains ever-present.